Alternator mounting problems....need some ideas

[rcbildr]

The problem I have is, the stock fan belt of 54 1/8" is too short and the next size up (54 5/8") is too long...can't get the tension adjusted properly. I am using tall valve covers and with the stock belt my alternator hits the cover and it is very difficult to get the belt on. The belt tension is so tight I can hear the belt hum when the engine is running. I am using the boss cast in the driver side rams horn exhaust manifold (the original manifold didn't have the boss, but it cracked) as the mounting point for the alternator. I've thought about grinding the boss off the manifold and using the stock brackets, but I think I'll run into the same problem. My truck has power steering so I can't mount the alternator low. Will I run into the same problem if I use the stock brackets? Does anyone know of a better solution? Also, is there a fan belt that is between the two sizes...I've called NAPA and they said no. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

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71 C-10 1/2ton: 2 1/4" Dual Exhaust, Painless Wire Harness, Rebuilt Th-350, 355 w/Vortec Heads, ARP Rod & Main Bolts, Mallory Unilite distributor with Mallory Promaster coil, MSD 8.5mm wires, Edelbrock Performer carb w/ a 1" spacer, Edlebrock Performer Intake.

[longhorn man]

I had run the original brackets on my '70 3/4 ton Longhorn, and had the alt hitting the corner of my Eldebrock signiture valve cover. I was havng the same trouble as youare. What I ended up doing, was dimpleing the corner of the valve cover so i coult slide it up a bit. Kinda sick, but it worked, and the alt covered the 'damage' done to the cover.
Another option, which may be kind of teediouse, would to get a smaller water pump pully, and set it to where it will work. The troublke is, there are a few variables to look at, including bolt patern, back spacing, pully diameter, and belt grove and size. (that's alot of variables)
What ever you do, you need to stop running with that belt so tight. You will destroy the bearings in it and the pully will actually pop out of the alt case.

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'69 G.M.C. (http://geocities.com/andys_69_gmc/) 350/350 and a heluva cam. Still trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man.
The 1970 One ton Longhorn (one of only 1404 built) with only a TH350...soon to be CADDY powered and a TH350. Check out The Longhorn Webite. (http://www.longhorntrucks.freeservers.com/) Andy, in Columbus Ohio...Home of JEGS

[rcbildr]

Thanks, but I'm not going to do anything to my polished aluminum ball milled centerbolt valve covers. They were quite spendy. I found a couple sites (did a search on metacralwer for alternator brackets) last night that might have what I'm looking for. I emailed them and am waiting for a response. I might experiment around with the sotck bracket tomorrow and see if I can come up with a better way to mount it. All I really need to do is move the lower mount of the alternator out approx. 1/2" so I can use the longer belt. I don't plan on running that way permanently. Hopefully it will hold up long enough for me to get my scirocco going. Thanks!

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71 C-10 1/2ton: 2 1/4" Dual Exhaust, Painless Wire Harness, Rebuilt Th-350, 355 w/Vortec Heads, ARP Rod & Main Bolts, Mallory Unilite distributor with Mallory Promaster coil, MSD 8.5mm wires, Edelbrock Performer carb w/ a 1" spacer, Edlebrock Performer Intake.

[longhorn man]

Yeah, don't blame you...my valve covers were 38 bucks.

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'69 G.M.C. (http://geocities.com/andys_69_gmc/) 350/350 and a heluva cam. Still trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man.
The 1970 One ton Longhorn (one of only 1404 built) with only a TH350...soon to be CADDY powered and a TH350. Check out The Longhorn Webite. (http://www.longhorntrucks.freeservers.com/) Andy, in Columbus Ohio...Home of JEGS

[racedvl]

You could always convert to a long style water pump. That would give you a more verstial bracket set-up. I dunno, just an idea.