View Full Version : Removing leaf springs
castiron9
08-13-2003, 02:12 PM
Want to remove leaf springs on Longhorn to replace what I believe to be worn out Leaf spring bushings>>..What do I need to do Start by removing 4 shackel bolts which are on there really tight?????????Any suggestions and ideas would be appreciated..Thanks.
longhorn man
08-13-2003, 03:14 PM
I have never done this myself, however, i hear that it is pretty easy to get injured doing this.
It should be a straight forward deal, just secure them all together and remove all the hardware...including the center bolt. Then (with new hardware) re-assemble.
One thing I have noticed over the years, it seems that about 90% of the longhorns that I have looked at had at least one leaf broken. I don't know if the spring guys were sniffin glue on the job, or if it is just that a Longhorn was more likely to be worked real hard, but it seems to be a common deal.
LeHeap
08-14-2003, 08:34 PM
That comment about getting hurt is a good warning. I have a broken leaf spring on my '71 8'Cheyenne. What do you recommend securing the springs with while you are unbolting everything? Lots of bailing wire or???
LeHeap
LeHeap
08-14-2003, 08:34 PM
That comment about getting hurt is a good warning. I have a broken leaf spring on my '71 8'Cheyenne. What do you recommend securing the springs with while you are unbolting everything? Lots of bailing wire or???
LeHeap
longhorn man
08-15-2003, 12:04 AM
A H/D C-clamp maybe? Or a few of them.
Anyone else have any ideas?
67C30
08-15-2003, 12:56 PM
I would use the Heavy Duty C-Clamps and a short peice of chain bolted together wraped around the leaf springs on each end, just in case even with all of the vehicle weight removed. Better safe than sorry.
longhorn man
08-15-2003, 07:17 PM
even with all of the vehicle weight removed
I would remove them from the truck first.
I have been thinking about it, and I think the C-clamps, and KNOWING that you need to watch everything should be enough. As you are getting to the end of the threads, you pay atention, even aim it away...
But then again, I'm the one that used to drive a Chevy Monza with no brake pedal...litterally. The brakes didn't work at all anyways, so when buddy needed the pedal, I took it off and gave it to him. The parking brake was stopping me fine.
Man I miss that old POS. Best running $50 car I ever owned.
67C30
08-16-2003, 12:30 AM
Just Duct Tape that sucker! About 5 rolls should due. (Insert Disclaimer Here):D
Frank-id
09-19-2003, 09:15 PM
This is a very easy task. There is NO danger. Use floor jack to lift rear and install jack stands on both sides of axle tubes near brake backing plates. Lower axle on stands but do not remove jack. Remove wheels. Spray lots of PB Blater to free the rusty nuts, etc. Remove shocks. Remove 4 u-bolt nuts each side. Work on one side at a time. Jack up axle to remove weight from springs. Remove front spring hanger bolt. Allow spring to rest on floor. Remove rear hanger, and remove spring. NO danger or pressure. U-bolt sometimes will break at the nuts. Replacement u-bolts available at most big rig shops and stores for about $3.50 each with correct washers and super thick lock nuts.
Taking the spring apart is hard and dirty but doable. At this time a decision should be made for harder or softer ride.......Now the other side. Springs can also be rearched....... Frank
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