View Full Version : Buy new two barrel or got a 4?
finlygot1
04-14-2003, 08:34 PM
Today I was picking my little sister up from school and my truck quit running.I figured it was the fuel pump.So I bought a new one.And changed it out.(on the side of the road)
Well it was still doing the same thing.There is something wrong with the carb.So we pulled it home with a chain.On the driver side at the top.There is a rod lever that moves this part that is spring loaded.Well somehow that is messed up.I bought a carb rebuild kit and put new parts in it.Something with part is out of wack.So I put another carb off my 69 camaro which I thought was good.I can't even get it to fire.
Would you guys buy a new two barrel or put a 4 barrel on it.I have a factory 4 barrel intake off a 71 c-10.
Any advice.Or tips on the carb?
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69 lwb 350/3 on the tree
67 lwb 350/th350
longhorn man
04-15-2003, 12:07 AM
If I had the cash and in your position, I would upgrade to an alluminum intake, and an AFB carb. Eldebrock makes both of these that will help your power and MPG at the same time.
I never liked haveing 1/2 a carb, but I am a true gear head though.
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'69 G.M.C. (http://geocities.com/andys_69_gmc/) 350/350 and a heluva cam. Still trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man.
The 1970 One ton Longhorn (one of only 1404 built) with only a TH350...soon to be CADDY powered and a TH350.
Check outThe Longhorn Website (http://www.longhorntrucks.freeservers.com/) Andy, in Columbus Ohio...Home of JEGS
And now...another site. The caddy swap page (http://geocities.com/caddyoneton/) is under construction!
GJORGENSEN
04-15-2003, 02:52 AM
I agree with the Edelbrock set up. Can't be beat for the money. The rod you are talking about sounds lioke the accelerator pump. This in itself will not make the tit not run. It will stumble and maybe try to quit when you give it the loud pedal but should still run. If it does not fire at all when you try to start it I would look to see if it is getting any gas in the carb and then look at the ignition to see if you are getting any spark. Lety us know what you find and maybe we can give more suggestions.
70GMC_BOB
04-15-2003, 01:03 PM
here goes a stupid question, but have to ask. have you looked into the filter in the front of the carb? or maybe it could possible be a crimped /restricted fuel line somewhere. just a couple of thoughts.
finlygot1
04-15-2003, 05:36 PM
Here is what is happening.With the original carb on it.I can take my hand and move the throttle linkage.And I can hear fuel being "squirted"into the carb.The truck will fire up and idle.You can even drive it for 3 foot or so.Then it just stumbles out and dies.It wont refire again.Till you repeat the procedure.I had my mom get in the truck and give it gas.The linkage is moving about the same.You can move it maybe 1/4 more with your hand.Why it will restart if you do it by hand and not with the pedal is beyond me.
I do know one thing I am getting tired of messing with old carbs real quick.The fuel lines are fine.As well as the filter.Like I said I put a brand new pump on it yesterday.
Friday I am going to buy a weiand stelth intake and a edelbrock 600cfm vacaum secondary carb.
I have a comp cams 470h cam in another motor that has never been used.I installed the cam.Never found a good set of heads for it though.I am thinking about putting it in this truck along with the new comp cams lifters and double roller timing chain.If I do I am going to do it while I have the intake off this time.I don't want to tear it apart again.
Do you think this is a good idea?Gas mileage isn't to much of a concern.The farthest I drive is about 30 miles away.ussaully I drive 4 miles to work then home.
Thanks for the help.Any advice about this combo.BTW the cam has 224 duration @ .050,.470 lift,with a 110 lsa.
Also is there anyway I can stay logged into the furom.Everytime I reply or post I have to go back and look up my password.Which Is hard to remember because all the capitals and what not.
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69 lwb 350/3 on the tree
67 lwb 350/th350
70 BOWTIE
04-15-2003, 06:16 PM
I would look and see if you put the right accelerator pump piston in right.I did the same thing and had to tear it apart and i put the old 1 back in.I put the new 1 in and it ran like a ape.Ape's can't run vey fast but they can run.
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97 TAHOE
70 C-10 CUSTOM LWB
69 C-10 (Project)
67 GMC LWB
63 IMPALA 2DR 327/PG
longhorn man
04-15-2003, 09:32 PM
Get the automatic choke..the manual ones are WAY too rich.
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'69 G.M.C. (http://geocities.com/andys_69_gmc/) 350/350 and a heluva cam. Still trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man.
The 1970 One ton Longhorn (one of only 1404 built) with only a TH350...soon to be CADDY powered and a TH350.
Check outThe Longhorn Website (http://www.longhorntrucks.freeservers.com/) Andy, in Columbus Ohio...Home of JEGS
And now...another site. The caddy swap page (http://geocities.com/caddyoneton/) is under construction!
GJORGENSEN
04-16-2003, 02:31 AM
If you don't have the right gears in the rear that cam might be a bit sluggish at low rpm. I would say at least a 3.73 rear. Also I would think that cam is rated best from about 2500 rpm up. If you have a stick shift you will be okay but a 2400 stall converter with an automatic will help get you going from a stoplight run.
If your Windows program doesn't remember your password then you have the ability to change it to something that you can remember. Just go into your profile on the page that you choose witch board you want to see. Click on profile and change the password. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com (http://www.ClassicHeartbeat.com)
finlygot1
04-16-2003, 12:18 PM
My truck has very low gears.Somewhere around 3:73's or higher.It has the 3 on the tree.I shoft from 1st to 2nd around 25 and from 2nd to 3rd around 45.I also don't drive it hard.The fastest I have went was 70.
My buddies all give me crap cause there 4 cylinder cars can beat my v8 truck.That is why I am changing the cam.
Also someone suggest I go with a 750 over a 600.I know that vacaum secondary carb only opens the secondaries when it "needs" to.I still think a 750 is a little big for a mild 350 though.
Any thoughts?
finlygot1
04-16-2003, 03:40 PM
Well I got it to run.Well sort of still does the same thing but now it stays running longer than 30 seconds.I deserve a good hit in the head from everyone of you for this.
Whenever I swapped the fuel line from the carb original carb to the other one.I installed the fuel filter backwards!So basicly it wouldn't start cause it wasn't getting any fuel.
I don't think the problem is related to RPM.But to engine load and vacuam.Whenever you pull out of my road you go down a hill on the highway.Whenever you are going down the hill it doesn't cut out.But coming back up the hill it cuts out and eventually dies.I was also thinking maybe the float level is set wrong.I checked it when I rebuilt other carb I set it and checked it properly.Still the same thing.
I also thought maybe it was something in the ignition.So I put a new cap with brass terminals on it.Then I got to thinking it did the same thing when I had the points in it.
I am just really stumped.And I am getting ready to spend over 400 dollars and it might not even solve my problem.
Any thoughts?
GJORGENSEN
04-16-2003, 07:54 PM
As far as the carb goes you will not gain anything with the 750. In fact you might even lose a bit unless you play with the jetting.
finlygot1
04-16-2003, 09:57 PM
Earlier tonight I was at my cousin's house.(same one that gave me my 67)And he asked if I had an intake leak.
So I came home and checked it out.And sure enough 2 of the bolts that hold the intake on.(the two next to the carb on the driver's side)Are stripped.Well acctually the threads in the head are.So I am going to retap them.
I can now do an intake swap in about 45 minutes.I am waiting for another pay check to order the parts.In the mean time I am going to do the cam swap and fix the stripped threads.
I don't understand how they got stripped.I used a torque wrench to tighten them down.It is almost like they pulled out.Kind of crazy.
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69 lwb 350/3 on the tree
67 lwb 350/th350
finlygot1
04-18-2003, 10:25 PM
Today I bought an edelbrock 600cfm electric choke.And an edelbrock performer RPM intake.
I was going to go with the weiand stealth.Autozone had the RPM in stock though.So I went with it.
I just got done dropping the pan so I could reinstall the timing cover.I did the cam swap.
I am hoping she will run alot better.I got 500 bucks into performance stuff so far.I still need headers.Then This summer I am going to go with some pro topline heads.Right now I got the crappy kind with 1.72 intake valves.Very bad for performance.
On a side note.While I was dropping the pan I saw there is no trans cross member.Right after where the clutch and all that is there is a mount for the trans.But the is no cross member.Should there be one?I am pretty sure there should be.If there is will one from my 67 chevy with a th350 work.
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69 lwb 350/3 on the tree
67 lwb 350/th350
finlygot1
04-18-2003, 10:49 PM
I hope this stuff works as good as it looks.
http://ourworld.cs.com/Sc86350camaro/edelbrock1.JPG
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69 lwb 350/3 on the tree
67 lwb 350/th350
Thunder1
04-18-2003, 11:38 PM
I'm goin for the same carb and intake. let me know how it works out. o ya that is a square bore carb isnt it
[This message has been edited by Thunder1 (edited 04-19-2003).]
theo70
04-19-2003, 12:40 PM
Is that the 1406? I'm looking to replace my manual choke Holley with the electric choke Edelbrock...what all is involved with converting to an electric choke?
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1970 chevy SWB fleet
Holley carb, Edelbrock intake, 350/350, Hedman headers,Painless wiring,future 4/4 drop
finlygot1
04-19-2003, 04:59 PM
Yes it is a 1406.
All that is involved in the electric choke.Is running one wire.the positive)To something that is powered when the key is one.And then running the ground to the carb's body.Pretty simple.
Right now my harmonic balancer is being a PITA.So I have to decide wether to go to the stock cars or put my truck togother.HMM.
finlygot1
04-20-2003, 10:35 PM
alright I put it togother.And it is still being a pita.
It takes a few cranks for it to start.Then once it does start it will only run with the timing advanced.If I try to retard it.it will die.And wont restart until I advance it again.And when I say advanced I mean away advanced.Like 3 inches from even being on the timing tab.
Any idea's?
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69 lwb 350/3 on the tree
67 lwb 350/th350
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