My New '53 3800

[Classic Bowtie]

Hi all!

This is my first post and my new truck.

It's a '53 3800 that I found in a barn in Michigan.

I can't wait to start getting this thing running.

[72lwb]

To say that I am jealous would be an understatement. Welcome to the site, these guys are really nice and helpful here.

[busterwivell]

How about some pics after you get it home and cleaned up? Curious to see just how nice that thing is! Nice find!

[WES]

Welcome to our site!! Great find!!! We look forward to hearing more about it. WES

[Classic Bowtie]

I finally got the truck home. (Atleast to my parents house, where I plan to work on it.) I found lost of bondo, which I didn't see in the barn. The body will take more work than I thought. I may not even try with the fenders and start looking for some in better shape.

My plan is to put this body on a newer chassis. I have a 1990 C1500 with a strong 350. Does anybody know if I can't use that chassis? I know that many use the S-10 frame, but I understand it is about 5 inches to narrow. So far the track width looks to be about the same between the 3800 and the C1500.

More Photos:
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1354.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1353.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1352.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1351.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1350.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1349.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1348.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1347.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1346.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1345.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1344.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1340.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1339.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1338.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1337.jpg
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/Callender53/53Truck1/HPIM1336.jpg

[Classic Bowtie]

I have not been able measure the trucks (they are not stored at my house), but I have found the following track widths for both the C1500 and the 1953 online.

Front Track
1953 3804 56.250
1953 3604 57.125
1953 3104 56.750
1997 C1500 63.580
1995 S10 57.200

Rear Track
1953 3804 61.750
1953 3604 62.375
1953 3104 61.000
1997 C1500 63.580
1995 S10 55.120

It looks like the C1500 is good in the back and too wide in the front (about 3.5” per side). It also looks like the S10 is good in the front but too narrow in the rear (about 3.25” per side).

An S-10 frame with a different rear end may be a better bet (but I don't have that frame, yet). I am concerned that AD-Engineering recommends 2.5" wheel spacers for the S-10 front suspension. Is this something that is required or not?

I will measure the C1500's front tires when turned lock to lock to see if they will fit within the '53s fenders. I will also position some tires underneath at 63.8” and post the pictures vs. stock 56.25” width.

Does anyone know if the frame kick-up over the rear axle will cause an issue with the ’53 bed?

Jim C.

[Mr48chev]

If your fenders don't have tears or bad kinks in them you should be able to work out the dents.

From what I have seen on the S 10 swaps in these trucks the guys who have done it are using wide spacers on the wheels to make them fit out in the wheel wells.

I don't think that late model frame will work the way you want it to either.

It is a lot more practical to go with the Mustang II style front cross member and suspension and swap the rear to a car rear end either GM Or Ford.
The reason I suggest the Mustang II front end is that it takes less hacking on the truck and it works. There are even a couple of kits that are bolt on and you only need a half inch drill and hand tools to install it. I have seen that one on a display frame and it is a pretty clean installation that anyone can do in his home garage or driveway.

A Nova/Camaro subframe swap calls for chopping up the inner fender wells and doing a lot of changes in the radiator support area if you run a front steer stub. The photo I use in my Avatar shows my truck with a nova stub under it. I had to cut a coil to get it that low but I like them low.

Any late truck frame is going to call for building all new body mounts plus hacking up the fender wells and switching to a different style radiator to make it function and the truck will sit way too high to look decent. you will also have to raise the floor of the bed quite a bit to clear the kickup in the frame at the rear. I'm not saying it can't be done but expect an extreme amount of work to make it look right.
I have never measured it up to see if it is practical to put a 60/70 something front suspension under one of these. I think Howdy Ledbetter did one way back when but it never caught on.

I guess one has to ask, "what are your plans for the truck?" before making suggestions on frames/ suspensions and what not.

How high/low do you want it to sit. What are your plans as far as driving/using it? Hot rod truck look or Resto look?

[Classic Bowtie]

Well here is another update.

I have not done any real work to the '53 except to take alot of measurements.

I have striped the '90 C1500 down to the frame and engine. (FYI, the doors and hood look rust free and straight, and are available.)

The next step is to remove the front fenders and grill/radior support from the '53 and do a test fit on the newer chassis. The measurements that I took on the front tires, look like they will fit under the fenders without needing to narrow the front suppention. If not, I will investigate some offset rims to narrow it up.

I should know alot more about the fit up after the next weekend of work.

Jim C.

[Mr48chev]

Well,I'll tell ya, don't cut up or get rid of your original chassis until you really decide if that C-10 chassis is worth the effort.

I just don't think that the C10 chassis is going to fit in a way so that the truck is presentable.

The cab will sit on it ok but you will have to raise the floor in the bed the distance of the kickup in the frame from the straight part of the frame. That is several inches.
In the front you will have to do away with almost of all the 53 inner panels to clear the kick up in the frame, the suspension and the steering. That means you will have to build a complete new structure as far as core support and inner fender panels to make it work right.
The other option is to have the cab sit way up off the frame with stands holding it up like some of these Toyota 4x4 trucks you see the kids driving around where you can see the frame with a 4 inch gap between it and the body.

Then we get to the difference between the tread widths of the trucks. As you said above, you will have to run a wheel with a severe offset to the inside to clear the fender or the truck will look like one of the kids toys from
WallMart.
I'm not trying to be negative here but i hate to see a guy spend time and hard earned money building a truck that ends up looking stuck together with things just not right.
I could also be wrong and the 53 could drop right down on the 90 chassis and fit great. .