Rear Disc brake conversion for '68 C 10...

[yachtcare]

I was once told I could use the rear end from a Cadillac Seville (76-79 vintage) with the rear disc setup to swap out the original rear. Is this correct?, Anyone got better suggestions? I would appreciate all opinions, Thank You, Tony

[Shane]

It is not a direct swap. The Caddy rear end is a "car style" 10 bolt....it is narrower....and has no mounting for coil springs.

But, You can use the calipers, backing plates and rotors (they are 5" x 5 lug pattern-like our trucks). You will have to do some modifications to your truck axles and to the backing plates. It is way more involved than most folks lead you to believe....and believe me, I just did this conversion.

You would be better off ordering caliper brackets from someone like www.speedwaymotors.com (http://www.speedwaymotors.com) and then buy your Caddy Seville calipers and rotors at your local AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. You will stil need to have some machine work done to the truck axles.

You will also need a proportioning valve set up for a 4 wheel disc system. I plan on using the Caddy Seville valve, as our trucks and these cars are very close in weight.

Hope this helps....

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Shane
SWB 1970 C10 Chevy -- frame off resto in progress...slow but steady!

[This message has been edited by Shane (edited 10-06-2002).]

[longhorn man]

Personally, I feel disc brakes in the back is a waste of alot of cash. Onless you are going all out on a road corse or on the show circuit, then it is waisted money. (again...IMO)
If you just want to bump up the efficiency of your woah power, try these guys. There shoes do cost quite a bit, but they will last forever and the stopping power is comparable to discs.
A board member has them on his burb and swears by them, and I have spoken to about a dozen ppl who run them on 4 wheel drum vehicles...only complaint is the cost.
However if you compair the price to your proposed disc swap...you'd be ahead with the new shoes.

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'69 G.M.C. (http://geocities.com/andys_69_gmc/) 350/350 and a heluva cam. Still trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man.
The 1970 One ton Longhorn (one of only 1404 built) with only a TH350...soon to be CADDY powered and a TH350.
Check outThe Longhorn Website (http://www.longhorntrucks.freeservers.com/) Andy, in Columbus Ohio...Home of JEGS
And now...another site. The caddy swap page (http://geocities.com/caddyoneton/) is under construction!

[Sams_71]

I've been told that these trucks are to light in the rearend for for the stopping power of rear discs. And that without anti-lock it could lead to rearend sliding around to meet ya.


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Sam

For the record...`71 Chevy Cheyenne
http://home.att.net/~tmj39/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html
'67 Chevy Custom
The Genuine Chevy - GMC Truck Club of Kansas City http://www.chevygmcofkc.org/
Contact me: tmj39@att.net

[Shane]

Sams_71...you have a VERY valid point. but with the correct proportioning valve, you can eliminate this problem. These trucks are no lighter in the rear than say a NASCAR Craftsman Truck style truck and they all use 4 wheel discs.

You are correct when referring to a 4 wheel disc system using the standard TRUCK prop. valve, the truck will certainly "lock up" the rear first, but with the correct valve you can certainly "tweak" the vehicle to shorter stopping distances.

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Shane
SWB 1970 C10 Chevy -- frame off resto in progress...slow but steady!